Newly swish the Croatian capital keeps its Habsburg charm. Locals relax on café terraces, lovers stroll in greenery near the Cathedral while shoppers browse the Dolac market filled with fresh produce. Zagreb exudes a Mediterranean way of life, with fringes of Balkan excess after dark.
Croatia’s second city is modernising itself, with a revamped waterfront, new art gallery and a rapidly improving hotel stock. Yet this busy port is perhaps best seen via a bar crawl of its historic centre, a gutted Roman palace.
Croatia’s Adriatic jewel is centred on its Old Town and surrounding City Walls, the money shot on every brochure. Busy and pricy, it can still be magical of a summer night – not least when dining at Gil’s overlooking the old port.